The Darkroom Cookbook Forum

The first thing to understand is that push processing does not increase true film speed. Push processing underexposes the film, whose speed has already been maxed out by the mfr., and increases the density in the highlights, giving you something to print. An actual speed increase is measured by ...

There are several high-proof ethyl alcohol drinks that will work, such as high-proof (180+) rum, some vodkas, and grain alcohol. Try one. If it doesn't work, you still have the high spirits to relax your nerves... This is an international solution. If you live in the Caribbean, use rum; if you are ...

Good response, p.barden. This one has me completely stumped, so your suggestion to try different working methods and tanks is appreciated.

You mention fixer remover. What are you referring to? HCA? Something else?

Greetings, birdreader. Thank you for the interesting post on low-gamma development. I will confess that the way you presented it was somewhat confusing. That's okay if it works for you, but a preamble explaining the process and purpose would have made the post more accessible to more members. Just ...

My apologies for the delay. I have been incapacitated for health reasons since December. At this point, I'm out of ideas. My only suggestion is to entirely discontinue Kentmere and Ilford films and switch to Kodak films. Why Kodak? Love 'em or hate 'em, they still have the highest reputation for ...

Harman Technologies owns Ilford and Kentmere. Both films are coated on Harman's machines. Harman also coats many third-party films, such as Agfa, which does not own film-coating machines. While I am unsure who coats Agfa, I would not be surprised to discover it was Harman. If that is the case, there ...

If you use more than 1 L of developer, you will have to agitate gently by picking up one corner as far as you can without sloshing the developer out of the tank and letting it go, then pick up another corner. Do this randomly for your chosen agitation time.

I've run out of ideas unless it is something embedded in the emulsion during manufacture.

Remind me once more, is this only occurring on a particular film emulsion or brand?

I apologize for taking so long to respond. I just returned from a workshop in Cuba, where internet access is not always available. For normal dilutions, you should use 350 ml to 500 ml of developer for 80 square-inches of film (4-4x5, 2-5x7, or 1-8x10 sheets). The Stearman SP 8x10 will accept as ...

Is the space where you load your film in the holders clean and clear of contaminants? This looks like it might be created by a contaminated thumb sliding the film under the film holder rails.

I have just taken a second look at the formula that you posted. I was too hasty the first time through. Bill Troop pointed out something I completely missed. This is not a two-bath formula. This is a two-part formula, Solution A and Solution B, which are combined according to instructions to form a ...

Your agitation method is good; I would not recommend changing it. You mention short development times. Except in certain rare circumstances, do not develop negatives under 5 minutes.

I do not see evidence of bromide drag. I do see the overdeveloped sky at the edge of the negative. This is more likely because chemicals from the reels cause overdevelopment in that area, back to Ian's suggestion of keeping them clean. But from what you have said, that may not be the problem, either ...

Ricardo, here is the fixer as it is published in the Film Developing Cookbook, 2nd edition, page 174. Your formula shows 240 g of thiosulfate, the published formula shows 250 g, and sodium metaborate, not borax. TF-2 Fixer Recipe (for 1 liter) Water, 750 ml Sodium Thiosulfate (pentahydrate): 250 ...

What Ian said about buildup on the plastic reels is true. However, in my experience, it takes a long time for that to happen. Ian even wrote "with quite a bit of use." That said, I would try what Ian suggested and soak them in dishwater soap or 50/50 acetic acid then see if the problem recurs. If it ...

That makes sense, Ian.

I have never in my career known anyone who has the problems you are having, one after the other. I'm almost ready to recommend a digital camera.

These black speckles are outside my experience. I am going to ask around and see what we can find out.

I'm not ignoring your post; I'm just trying to figure out what's going on. First, for the spots to print black, they must be clear on the negative. The problem may either be in your camera or chemical contamination in your darkroom. If the problem is in the camera, something is blocking the light ...

The Macbeth TD 904 is a transmission densitometer used for color and b/w photographic and laboratory research applications. This unit is in excellent condition and comes with the original manual and a calibration negative (see the attached photo). If you're looking for a top-of-the-line transmission ...

The 30th Anniversary (5th) edition of DCB is in the final stages of production. If all goes well it will be available for preorder on December 9 from Amazon and the publisher, Focal Press, https://tinyurl.com/5awjr77p . The book has a lot of new material and most, if not all, errors found in ...

Fine images. The APX renders them nicely. I'm afraid it appears the problem is indeed Fomapan, as unlikely as that may be. I suggest you stick with APX or XX. Like you, I am a fan of XX. Of course, I used to use Super XX in 4x5 and 8x10 sizes during the 70s, so there is an emotional attachment. Oh ...

Hey! Don't get romantically involved with a film. There are a lot of good ones out there and Foma has no claim to be better than any other. I suggest you try Kodak XX, available from ars-Imago in Europe, or CineStill in the U.S.

As unlikely as it may seem, it is looking more like Fomapan all the time.

I would like you to do one more test. Repeat exactly what you just did, including the water presoak without wetting agent, with any other film and see if this occurs.

Please keep me updated on the results of your test rolls. From what I know, and the research I have done, these are indeed air bells. The question is what is causing them.